![]() ![]() It’s kinda hard to search through a website made for computer on my phone. If you choose to get the tiny fab heated build plate you would(I think. They will last longer and be more resistant to wear from harder materials, but at the same time are much more expensive. That part is completely up to you.Īlthough since you want to get into other materials, you might want the steel nozzles available on the Tiertime website. The Cetus website says you can print with TPU with the nozzle that comes with the printer, so I think flexion extruder might be uneccesary, although it would be kinda cool to see how it worlds out. I haven’t tried printing with flexible filament yet, although I plan on doing so soon. This is optional.įirst let’s start with flexible filament. You can get the Quiet Fan which works just as well as the stock fan, but is quieter. So here I’ll just talk about all the other modifications you can make. ![]() (This is pretty much the only printed upgrade that I’ve slapped on my printer in the 3/4 years of having it.) Just make sure to print it on the flat side. Upgraded Fan Duct it’s pretty self explanatory. This is a big bunch of questions, so expect a couple spelling and formatting errors(doing this on mobile doesn’t help much either Thanks for your time and thoughts, merry xmas Is it worth it to convert over to open source? Does it make printing outrageously better?Īlso what about printing surfaces? Whats a good surface to use, i've had a few mishaps where my nozzle has dragged across the plate so I'd love a different material that adheres but also can be replaced when needed! Second, since I want to move into other materials i'm looking at getting a heated bed. What do you think about the upgrades I'm considering - are they necessary or just skip?įirst up, I'd love to print some other materials and venture into flexible filaments so I'd like to change to a Flexion extruder. I'd love to get thoughts from the community. Now however I'm getting the itch to swap out some parts for upgraded bits. The homing is already done during initialization so it is not necessary to do it again before printing.I've had my Mk3 for about a month now and have printed up a storm. The print speed of the profile is set to 120mm/s, which is quite fast and may not give best quality, adjust it base on your need!įor MKII users, please remove all G28 command from your Gcodes, since MKII machine use a special homing mechanism which are not compatible with G28. If everything goes well you will see the extruder temperature value start to rise and the 3 axes start homing and then printing starts. The software right now does not have much support for gcode related operations, it will just translate it into codes that can be read by Cetus firmware and start printing. ![]() Then you will get a confirmation to run the gcode. Loading Gcode is same as load a stl file, first save your gcode from S3D to your computer and load it into the Cetus3D. M109 and M191 are code to set extruder and heat bed temperature, if you just give the code without a target temp (Sxxx) which mean turn them off. G28 Z-2 home Z (G28, not supported in MKII,remove it if you have MKII machine) G28 X-2 Y2 home axes (G28, not supported in MKII,remove it if you have MKII machine) Higher acceleration could produce better corners but may cause ripples. M204 is tell the machine firmware how much acceleration you want, the value P1500 can be changed. G28 Z-2 home Z axis (G28, not supported in MKII,remove it if you have MKII machine) G28 X-2 Y2 home x y axes (G28, not supported in MKII,remove it if you have MKII machine) Please note origin offset of X-axis and Z-axis, Z-axis origin offset is equal to the nozzle height value of your printer. If you are using the standard version, change the Z-axis to 180mm. Please note build volume is based on the extended version, so the build volume setting is 180x180x300. You may also play with extrusion width setting to get a better top surface finish. if you use other materials, this value may need to be adjusted. The extrusion multiplier, it is determined experimentally, may not be the best opitmized value. Here are some explaination for the profile: Then you can import the cetus.fff profile into program and start printing. Since there is no fan control and heat bed control, so these setting are being cancelled by adding “ ” In Simplif圓D?you need to setup the firmware, as following: I think if you understand the profile, it will not be difficult to setup your own profile for slic3r and Cura, both are free to use. ![]() Then you need to have Simplif圓D software which will cost you some money. After some more tweaking with simplif圓D, here we provide a usable simplif圓D profile ( extended version ), you can use it as good starting point for further tinkering.įirst you need to use the latest Cetus3D software 1.1, download it here: ![]()
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